Looking for advice on best methods to remove the old seal and put in a new one.
Is it going to be headache enough that it's worth picking up a seal puller?
Thanks.
Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 21 Sep 2017 at 9:39am
Pressure washed 60 years worth of grime, packed dirt , grease and gunk of my D14 and apparently, that was the only thing keeping the oil seal on the pto from leaking like a sieve.......
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At the dealership we used to keep a pto seal flange hanging on the wall and would install a new seal and o-ring in it on the bench using a punch to knock it out from the front of the flange. This allows you to make the switch quickly with minimal oil loss. I think we used a couple dowels to help line things up quickly and lots of grease to protect the seal. Look over the shaft for burrs that could ruin the new seal when sliding it on. Otherwise you could drain some oil to do it mess free.
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
So, the seal can't be removed/ pulled from the front, leaving the pto bolted in place ....... the whole pto assembly from the tractor has to removed? or you're just saying it can but likely won't pull easily and its best to remove it all anyway?...by the time tmy seal gets here next week, I think all the oil is going to be out of it.........
What do you mean by front? The seal I'm referring to is at the rear and you remove the seal flange from the rear. Leave the shaft in, just pull the seal flange. There are just three bolts to remove. If it's leaking that bad and you don't want to lose your oil then park the tractor and drain oil into clean containers and wait for new seal and o-ring.
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
oh, alright, that sounds straight forward enough, thank you.
Yeah it's simple..if I can do it !!
DRAIN OIL FIRST !
I say AGIAN..
DRAIN OIL FIRST !!
if you don't well, let's just say I told you so....
Now, remove the 3 bolts and wiggle the casting off, replace seal, replace casting and 3 bolts, put oil in....
If there is room...slide an O-ring(or 2) onto the PTO shaft before all the other steps. It acts like an oil slinger,keeping some oil away from seal. Well that's what I was told, made sense to me, course this was AFTER I'd done mine.....
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
If you pressure washed around the seal, you best change the oil anyway. You probably blew water in past it.
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Keeping some oil away from the seal with "slinger" O-rings??? Your advisor is pretty ignorant, because the seal is completely submerged in oil.
Maybe not all tractor PTO shafts are submerged in oil ?
It might help with a worn PTO shaft at the seal from turning round and round for 50 years. I did see one shaft where it needed weld put on fill the groove,hate to think what a proper machine shop would charge for that and then turning down the PTO shaft to size.
I've also heard some put 2 seals in,again to 'find' good shaft to seal to.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
no comment, JB IS TOO MUCH
Edited by DougG - 21 Sep 2017 at 6:15pm
Is wacky tobacky legal in Canadajust kidding Jay
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
Sorry to dredge up an old topic!
Is there a gasket that needs replaced when doing this?
It was pretty easy and simple seal to replace......
Though ,about a year later the rear axle seals started to leak like mad........Give a old tractor a thorough enough bath, and you'll be replacing every seal and gasket on the thing it seems!
I believe there will be a o-ring on the back side, if I recall right.....
Dave43311 wrote:Sorry to dredge up an old topic!
Just an O-ring and a seal. Pretty self evident once you see it apart. Make sure you put the seal facing the correct direction.Just an O-ring and a seal. Pretty self evident once you see it apart. Make sure you put the seal facing the correct direction.
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
BTW looking back at my comments it almost looks like I was slighting our friendly Canuck, Jay. That certainly was not meant as anything more than a joking poke at a good guy.
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Wink
I am a Russian Bot
That's OK Lonn, heck you had to put up with Obama for EIGHT friggin YEARS !!!
rethinking the O-ring thing, it may have been to keep oil away from a worn groove just on the inside of the real PTO seal. I don't know how much 'front to back' slop there is,but I can 'see' wear there if the PTO was used a lot, or grit got in there.
yeah, I found out it's under oil, LOTS in my case as the RAM seals were less than perfect....
all is good....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
CLEAN the area before removing the three bolts and the plate. As others have said, check the shaft for burrs.
If the fluid level is really high, have a drain pan handy.
Edited by Clay - 30 Jan 2020 at 11:35am
I have changed these seals with very little, if any, loss of oil. We park the tractor on a very steep hump, with the rear wheels up hill. BE SURE to adequately block the rear wheels and set the brake. If necessary, letting the air out of the front tires will give some additional advantage.
Very little oil loss and amazing how clean the old gal was inside.
I did as Clay mentioned, large HD jack stands under rear axle housings but I had front wheels off and front hubs sitting on 2x4 pieces.
where did you find that hill in Kansas?
I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS!
Clay wrote:CLEAN the area before removing the three bolts and the plate. As others have said, check the shaft for burrs.
If the fluid level is really high, have a drain pan handy.
Did that once too on Dad's 190XT when he was out round baling for someone. It worked with just a little oil loss. If you are fast you can do it without the hill but if there is a hang up with getting it together it will be a mess.Did that once too on Dad's 190XT when he was out round baling for someone. It worked with just a little oil loss. If you are fast you can do it without the hill but if there is a hang up with getting it together it will be a mess.
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
Lots of hills in Kansas. Just get a few miles off the interstate.
Just drain rear housing (probably needs to be anyway ) take the 3 bolts out of housing n remove plate leaving shaft in tractor .(this way u do not need to drain P/D housing )Now u can polish the shaft where seal rides on it. .now put new seal in or I used these 2 seals pending shaft condition .
If u install 2 seals make sure u put grease between seals to lube back seal if front one seals on shaft.
Just drain rear housing (probably needs to be anyway ) take the 3 bolts out of housing n remove plate leaving shaft in tractor .(this way u do not need to drain P/D housing )
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
Just because you do not have the tools for job , it dose not make it a bad design.
hmm, I'm wondering if you replaced the bearing with a 'sealed' one, if that'd help reduce leakage? Remove the inner seal, keep out one.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
Thanks for all of the replies and especially the photos.
jaybmiller wrote:If you did use a shielded bearing, I would definitely remove the inner shield so oil could easily get to the bearing, just not freely pass thru to the other side. Then your actual seal could possibly run dry, which wouldn't be a good thing for long term use.
http://www.ae-ta.comLena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
hmm, hadn't thought of that, dry seal....
though in my case ,not a big deal, PTO only used for rototilling 3-4 hrs a year..
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water